Beach hopping on Riviera Nayarit

On our third day it’s time to leave party central (aka Vallarta) and head home. The streets are almost quiet as we drive through downtown. The emerald mountains are glistening in the sun, with its houses clinging on to the hillside. We leave the land of resorts and nightclubs, and drive an hour north to the Riviera Nayarit – in search of that perfect beach…

Our first stop is Sayulita. Though not as commercial as Vallarta, it is still every bit as much Americanized. Many Americans have made this low-key surfer’s paradise their home (this place even has an international school!). And who can blame them? A long, palm fringed beach, great waves, and green hills rising up from the ocean. We stop at a little Cuban restaurant for the best and cheapest burritos ever, and take a long walk on the crowded beach. It seems like thousands have made it down here for the Easter vacation. A Mexican family trio are playing band music (what the?!), and the surfers are showing off their latest tricks. We rent boogieboards and enjoy ourselves in the waves for an hour. The sun is shining from a clear blue sky, and I wish we didn’t have to continue home to Guadalajara…

Our next stop is San Francisco (or San Pancho), about 10 minutes up the road. This is what Sayulita must have been like before it got discovered. This is where the “real” hippies hang out. Beachcombers with dreads are singing and dancing in the street. I see no gringo B&B’s or coffee shops. And the beach…almost empty. A few Mexican families are sitting under their umbrellas, with their kids jumping in the waves. I could definitely spend some time here. The only problem; Mexicans love noise. So the beach front restaurant has put up huge speakers that are blasting out banda music (again, what the?!). Whatever happened to listening to the waves and the wind and maybe your iPod? What about enjoying the peace and quiet and reading a book or a magazine? I guess not…we gotta play by Mexican rules. Still, this beach is so long that I’m pretty sure that we can find our own little quiet spot if we ever return. We start wondering how much the price of a lot would be around here…

Our third destination; Lo de Marcos. This place is definitely undiscovered by the gringos, and the only places to eat are typical Mexican “cenadurias”. There’s a shady town plaza, and the streets are empty. The beach is perfectly quiet. Locals are selling shrimp and mangoes. Kids are playing. If only we could extend our trip by another day…

Our last destination is Guayabitos. To put it short, this place is insane. A favorite with Mexican families, this town is definitely over-crowded. And the beach…well…is there a stronger word than over-crowded? Filled to the brim, perhaps? How anyone can enjoy this beach remains a mystery to me. We enjoyed it merely from an anthropological point of view. The water is dirty and packed with kids and their parents playing and screaming. Vendors are selling fruit, ice cream, ceviche, shrimp, whatever your tummy desires. Of course, they are all screaming to let you know what they have to offer. We zig-zag our way along the beach, trying to make our way through the crowds. And the best (or worst?) part; several Mexican bands are walking along the beach offering music. For a fee, they’ll play for you and your family and friends, and Mexicans seem to love this. We see girls and boys shaking their booties to deafening tones. It sure is a loud spectacle. We had planned to have a nice dinner by the beach before we headed home, but we escape to a quiet side street for some tacos instead. As we start the long road back to Guadalajara, we both agree that we definitely won’t be coming back to this beach!

The Great Escape - to the beach!

I was prepared to spend Easter vacation in my house doing all the things I normally never have enough time to do. But when my boyfriend called me Monday morning to suggest we go to the beach because he had just gotten 2 days off work, I wasn’t difficult to convince. Our bags were packed by the time Manuel arrived at the house, and we were off!

Four hours later we arrive at Bucerìas, about 30 minutes north of Puerto Vallarta. From the roof of our cheap hotel I see the waves crashing in towards the shore and the palm trees waving in the wind. The air feels different. In Guadalajara, the heat is stifling and uncomfortable. Here, the balmy breeze wraps itself around me like a warm lover.

By the beach, street vendors sell ceviche, shrimp and souvenirs. We sit down at a plain restaurant a block away from the beach and order shrimp ceviche (shrimp “cooked” in lime) and aguachile (shrimp “cooked” in a spicy mix of lime, cilantro and cucumber). We watch American tourists and Mexican families, all eager soak up the sunshine. Bucerìas is definitely more low-key and relaxed than the crazy Puerto Vallarta. Although you can find plenty of restaurants that are geared towards Americans, like “Karen’s Beachfront Restaurant” and “Mark’s Bar and Grill”, there are no big resort developments here. The atmosphere is laid-back, and from the beach you have stunning views across Bahìa de Banderas, the seventh largest bay in the world. It might seem a little run down, but it definitely has more of a Mexican feel than the busy tourist centre that Puerto Vallarta has become.

At night, we head to Vallarta. The major highway is packed with traffic. Easter (or Semana Santa as it is called here) is probably the busiest time of the year here. The streets of downtown Vallarta are filled with tourists and cars, and it’s almost impossible to move on the boardwalk “Malecon”. Music is blasting from the clubs, and only in the faint background do you hear the waves crashing. Street vendors sell overpriced coconuts, fruit and handmade jewelry. Fancy boutiques offer traditional handicrafts, and international restaurant chains such as “Hard Rock Café” and “Bubba Gump Shrimp Company” make sure you don’t have to eat a single Mexican meal while you’re here. We walk along the Malecon and see Mayans performing their traditional dance where they “fly” around a tall pole while attached to the top with ropes. As we reach Old Vallarta, the town definitely gets a quieter feel. The cobblestone streets remind us that only a few decades ago, Vallarta was but a small fishing village. But as we turn a corner, we suddenly realize that this more traditional part of the town is also home to some very lively gay clubs. Rainbow flags abound, and inside one of the bars we can see tourists dancing on the bar. We head back to the newer part of town for some huge cheese and beef tacos, and call it a night.

The next day we get up early-ish and drive about 30 minutes north to Destiladeras, a long stretch of relatively undeveloped beach. It’s still pretty early in the morning, and Mexicans are setting up their tables and chairs to offer food and drinks to the tourists who will arrive later. We walk along the beach, passing families and campers, luxury homes and hotels. There’s hardly anybody out so early in the morning, and a feeling of peacefulness fills me. I feel the sand between my toes, and dream about having my own little house right here. On our way back to the car we are stopped by a salesman offering us a free breakfast cruise with open bar if only we come to check out the new resort that is being planned. Turns out that a huge piece of land around the beach has been bought, and apartments and condos will be set up in landscaped gardens. If we return in a couple of years, we probably won’t recognize this beach. The beach where my boyfriend used to play as a child will no longer be public, and will be taken over by American tourists. This is the sad part about coming to Vallarta; seeing that there’s hardly a public beach in the area as everything is owned by resorts, and that most of the resorts aren’t even owned by Mexicans. Americans are completely taking over this area; as tourists, and as restaurant and hotel owners. Mexicans are left working in construction, as hotel staff or

waiters. They are lucky because tourism offers them jobs, but they see little of the wealth that is being created in the area.

In the afternoon, we drive back to Bucerìas to have lunch at Manuel’s uncle’s house. The two little boys are playing with the water hose when we arrive, and the young mother is in the kitchen preparing food. There is some very basic furniture, and a dirty cement floor. They all sleep in a room in the back. In front of the turquoise house there is just a dirt patio. And a banana tree where they pick their own bananas. We climb up on the roof and get coconuts from a tree in the back. Manuel opens the coconuts and we all drink fresh coconut water. In the shade of the banana tree, Manuel’s aunt starts washing some clothes. When his uncle arrives home from work, we sit down to eat shrimp soup with homemade tortillas and fish ceviche. By the time we leave we are completely stuffed, and I have a new family.

We drive south again, and decide to stop in Nuevo Vallarta for a swim. But we soon realize that the beaches in this perfectly developed resort community are all private. We continue through Vallarta and out towards Mismaloya in search of a perfect little beach. But again, all the little coves belong to the hotels clinging to the green hillsides. We finally find a little path leading down to a small sandy stretch, but it’s packed with Mexican families. We jump in the waves, eat some oranges and enjoy the feeling of warm sand beneath our feet. Convinced that there must be more beaches further south, we continue. But we don’t have much luck. Before long, the road starts heading inland and we’re surrounded by jungle covered mountains. Finding a beach shouldn’t be so hard when you’re by the beach…

So we find ourselves back in downtown Vallarta, in a rundown hotel. We stroll along the cobbled streets and the Malecon, and find a busy Italian restaurant in the old part of town. We enjoy delicious pasta and pizza, and try not to think about having to head back to the city the next day.

Touring the state of Guanajuato

The first day of 2010. Our first day in Guanajuato. What better way to start the year and our trip than by doing a tour of Guanajuato’s neighboring towns. As soon as we head out of Guanajuato there are mountains and trees as far as the eye can see. The road is winding up and down, the guide is going on and on about history I know nothing about (sorry), and typical Mexican music is blasting and preventing me from getting some much needed sleep. Let the fun begin!

First stop: Dolores Hidalgo. Historically, this town is known as the birthplace of the Mexican Independence. After Father Hidalgo’s conspiracy against the Spanish was threatened, he held his famous independence speech and yelled “Viva Mexico!” in front of his church in the early morning of September 16, 1810. Thus it was here that the war for independence began. Today, however, there is little to remind you of conflict and battle except the Museo de la Independencia Nacional. The church stands tall beneath a blue sky, and locals go about their business in the peaceful streets. In the green park in front of the church, a mariachi band is playing as children happily buy balloons from street vendors. In a quiet corner of the park, you can buy avocado-, cheese-, or shrimp flavored (to name only a few!) ice cream. Manuel settles for a sweet guava flavor, while I simply soak up the relaxing atmosphere.

Dolores Hidalgo is also known for its ceramics industry, and it’s the perfect place to buy brightly colored bowls and plates at an incomparable price. Another reason for visiting this quaint town is the tomb of Jose Alfredo Jimenez, a popular Mexican singer and songwriter. Just outside the town center you can find his tombstone; a huge sombrero and a serape (a colorful blanket worn by men) with names of all his songs. Even though I had never heard of this singer before, his tombstone still struck me as the most impressive I’ve ever seen. With its bright colors, it is definitely a worthy celebration of his life and work (and very Mexican!).

Next stop: Atotonilco. This dusty town would be pretty uninteresting if it wasn’t for its Mexican version of the Sixtine Chapel. Though much less grand, the sanctuary contains seven different chapels that are all dedicated to Jesus. The chapel we are allowed to enter is filled with faded paintings and writing from top to bottom. The pictures tell the story of Jesus’ life, and biblical passages and poems add historical context. Nuns sell sweets and baked goods from their little store, and beggars sit patiently on the steps leading up to the chapel.

Last stop: San Miguel de Allende. At 6pm, we finally arrive in the beautiful colonial town of San Miguel de Allende (slightly disappointed that it is so late because this was the only reason why we did the tour!). This is Guanajuato’s preppy up-scale sister, hosting a large expatriate community (mainly American and Canadian retirees) and wealthy weekenders from Mexico City. While Guanajuato is low-key and unpretentious, San Miguel de Allende is elegant and slightly pompous. Here, the fine restaurants and fancy bars fill up in the early evening with sharp gentlemen and ladies in high heels. Still, this UNESCO World Heritage Site has plenty of charm to offer. Although San Miguel de Allende doesn’t have many specific attractions to offer, walking around its cobble stoned streets is an attraction in itself. Stunning plazas, colorful markets and ancient churches await around every corner. In my new, over-priced alpaca sweater I trawl the streets with Manuel until we finally end up in the beautiful Plaza de la Ciudad. Surrounded by restaurants (and a Starbucks!), the plaza is filled with people going for an evening stroll. The green trees dance in the wind, and as we look up we spot the stunning cathedral. This is the icon of San Miguel de Allende, and is the attraction to see. In the early evening light, it looks almost pink. Its façade is inspired by the gothic style of medieval Europe, and lit up it is a truly magnificent sight. Like straight out of a fairy-tale, its magic appeal makes me feel like time is standing still, if only for a second.

Guanajuato - a Mexican gem

Nestled in between mountains, Guanajuato is a picturesque colonial town that attracts tourists from all over the world. Its winding streets take you to fine museums, beautiful cathedrals and leafy plazas. Although tourism is the main source of income, downtown is overflowing with charm and tradition, and newer hotels and developments are all located on the outskirts of town. This stunning UNESCO World Heritage site has brightly colored buildings and romantic alleyways that are bound to win your affection.

Being only 4 hours by bus from the major city of Guadalajara and 5 hours from Mexico City, this is an easily accessible place to spend a couple of days. Driving into downtown from the bus station, the roads turn into subterranean tunnels. There is an entire network of tunnels in and around downtown, following old rivers that have now dried up. Houses cling to the hillsides, and locals struggle to climb the exhausting slopes.

The historic downtown of Guanajuato offers several gems that can easily be explored on foot. Numerous cathedrals built during the colonial era, a large university, an indoor market where you can buy anything from local snacks to pottery, and several museums. The most romantic spot is probably “Callejon del beso”, or “Alley of the kiss“, a must-see for all couples. Legend has it that two star-crossed lovers would lean across the narrow alley from their balconies at night My favorite, however, remains the Plaza de la Union. Located next to the beautiful theater and an appealing church, this pleasant plaza is surrounded by restaurants and cafes. Green trees envelop the paths and the old gazebo, making it the perfect place to people-watch and soak up the romantic atmosphere with a drink from the strategically located Starbucks.

One of the town’s greatest attractions, however, is the rather ghoulish museum of mummies. Mummified bodies are displayed behind glass panels in a show so macabre that it should have an age limit. The naturally mummified bodies were taken from cemeteries in Guanajuato from 1865 until 1958, when it became illegal. The cholera epidemic at the time filled up the graveyards fast, and bodies were dug up when relatives were unable to pay the graveyard taxes. These bodies were shown to the public, and are the same bodies that are on display today. Well preserved bodies of old and young, with and without clothes, entertain and horrify the public. It is said that during the epidemic some people were buried before they had even died, to prevent spread of the disease. Maybe this explains why some of the mummies have expressions of horror and pain on their faces, screaming as they are about to die inside their coffins. Yet despite its appalling contents, the museum attracts crowds all year round. Every day, a long line of people can be found waiting to see the ghastly spectacle the museum offers.

The statue of “el Pipila” stands high above the town, offering stunning views of the cathedrals, plazas and mountains. You can buy tacos and corn, or handicrafts and souvenirs. A bus from the centre will take you up the mountain, or you can take the recently built cable car up the steep hillside. The statue was built in honor of a young man known as “Pipila”, who played a great part during the Mexican fight for independence. The Spanish had barricaded themselves in the Alhondiga, which was then a granary but has now been turned into a museum. One night, Pipila carried tar to the great wooden entrance of the Alhondiga and set it on fire, in an attempt to force the Spanish to surrender. Contrary to popular belief, however, the Spanish themselves decided to blow the door out when they realized that they were doomed. The victory of Pipila and his men was short lived, but he remains a hero in the legends of Guanajuato.

We didn’t find much fine dining or fancy bars, but we found a town soaked in history and charm. In this slow-paced mining town, people are astonishingly friendly and helpful, and taxi drivers charge what they are supposed to. The attractive cobble stoned streets take you to wonders on every corner, and make Guanajuato one of the top tourist destinations in Mexico.

Just in time for the sunset in Zacatecas

We were originally on our way to something called “Wixarika”, an area of traditional, indigenous towns. But as you may or may not know, being spontaneous is the key to living in Mexico. Because trust me, plans normally don’t work out. Plans are, in fact, quite useless!

We were looking for some sort of sign. We asked people at gas stations and little stores, but nobody had any idea where this “Wixarika” was. Before long, we were in another state and 3 hours away from Guadalajara. “Well”, said Manuel. “We’re already well on our way to Zacatecas. Let’s find out how far it actually is!”

So, 3 hours and some wrong turns later, at about 6:30 pm, we found ourselves in the old mining town of Zacatecas. It is spectacularly situated in the middle of the desert, surrounded by mountains. It boasts a beautiful, old cathedral, cobble stone streets, quaint alleys and gorgeous buildings and museums. In this town of 300,000 there are numerous hotels catering for tourists, but no malls. I was quite shocked!

After a typical Mexican dinner of enchiladas, beans and tortillas, we headed up to “La Bufa”, a lookout point. Unfortunately, the cable cars had already stopped running, but we got to see a spectacular sunset over the town and desert. The town turned pink and the mountains blue. We sipped the rest of our Starbucks coffees, watching the red sun disappear behind the mountains and wishing we didn’t have to get back to Guadalajara the same night…

When we walked back to our car, a family had gathered around a sound system. As they danced their way into the night, we began the long drive home…

Day of the Dead vs. Halloween

As my students dress up in creative costumes for the school’s major Halloween event, I am left wondering what will become of Mexican traditions. Last year’s Day of the Dead event is forgotten, as students and teachers alike embrace American culture, and leave their own behind. Wal-Mart and department stores have been full of pumpkins, witches and vampires for weeks. Nightclubs and restaurants are throwing costume parties and Halloween specials. What about the Day of the Dead?

Day of the Dead (or Dia de los Muertos in Spanish) is celebrated throughout Mexico on November 2nd. The origins of the holiday can be traced as far back as to Aztec civilization, where rituals celebrating the deaths of ancestors were performed. Skulls were displayed to symbolize death and rebirth, and are still used in Day of the Dead celebrations today. The famous skeleton-lady “Catrina” which can be seen year-round, is also based on Aztec tradition, namely the goddess “Mictecacihuatl” or “Lady of the Dead”.

For weeks before this special day, grocery stores and bakeries sell Pan de Muerto (a round, sweet bread sprinkled with sugar), decorated sugar skulls and chocolate coffins. These treats are placed on altars that families make in their house to honor loved ones who have passed away. The altars are decorated with orange marigolds, crosses and pictures of the deceased. There are also plates of beans, tortillas or drinks – usually the favorite of their loved one. These offerings can be anything from chocolate to tequila!

At the malls in Guadalajara there are large altars for famous Mexicans. Downtown, there are numerous stalls that sell Pan de Muerto, and candy skulls and coffins. Bakery windows are brightly decorated with skulls, and cemeteries abound with flowers.

Yet when I ask my students on November 3rd what they did for Day of the Dead, I get no response. One girl says she threw a Halloween party at her house. But since when is Day of the Dead synonymous with Halloween? To top it all off, the school has been covered with spider webs and jack-o-lanterns for days in preparation for the major Halloween event. Not a single skull or skeleton can be seen. Is this how a country loses its culture?

Mexico's War

Mexico is at war. In Mexico's second largest city, Guadalajara, armed police behind armored trucks indicate that the drug cartels are threatening the city. They are positioned outside the police headquarters, on a busy street in the middle of downtown. Several times in the last two years, the building has been hit by granades. Fortunately, it has happened in the middle of the night - but two cops have been killed and several wounded. "It was my friend who died", says one of the police standing guard. "I don't want the same thing to happen to me. Being a cop now is dangerous." He studies business in the evenings, and English on Saturday mornings. He desperately wants to change his profession.

The drug cartels now control all areas around this city of around 6 million people. The attacks on the police headquarters are direct responses to the police's work against the country's drug cartels. If the police tries to work against them, the consequences will be deadly.

The average Mexican doesn't really see this war, but drugs are present in the streets and in the schools. The dealers are becoming richer and more powerful, whereas rehab clinics and AA (Alcoholics Anonymous) groups can be seen in most neighborhoods. In one of the largest private high schools, drugs are easily available. "I was in shock when I started here", says a student in his second year. "It is so easy to get a hold of marihuana. There are students who sell." But the school appears to be losing the war. After a couple of days with drug dogs at the beginning of the school year, the school could again be controlled by the drug dealers. And at the recent Halloween event in the middle of the day, the smell of marihuana filled the air on campus. The teachers are not informed about the presence of drugs, and administration turns a blind eye to the problems.

How, then, can Mexico's war be won when police take a defensive stand and schools deliberately overlook the obvious issues?