In 2004, the then Prime Minister Goh Chok Tong claimed he was on a mission; “to build a nation of character and grace where people [could] live lives of dignity, and care for one another”. And this is exactly the kind of nation Singapore has become. A fusion between East and West, Singapore is arguably one of the cleanest and yet most exciting cities in the world. With a multi-racial population consisting of Malays, Chinese, Indians, Arabs and Eurasians, this hyper modern and somewhat sterile city will show you shopping, eating and drinking that will astound you. Singapore has it all, with an exotic twist.
I arrive in Singapore at 9am, and I have a hard time believing that this thriving nation was a sleepy, colonial backwater only 40 years ago. When I, somewhat confused and tired, try to find my way on the MRT, a smiling employee kindly shows me how to use my ticket. As I pass through the ticket gate she asks me where I am from. “Norway”, I reply. She waves and says it was nice to meet me. Although characterised by efficiency and economic growth, Singapore is full of surprises.
Singapore lacks the chaos of Bangkok and the craziness of Kuala Lumpur, but behind the façade of skyscrapers, hotels and massive shopping malls, you find what is truly Asia. Without the smog and (seeming?) disorder. And even though you could spend weeks getting lost in shopping malls and crowded alleyways, you can easily sample Singapore in a day.
I start the day at the mouth Singapore River, the origin of Singapore’s prosperity, with the Merlion standing guard. The quaint bridges stand in magnificent contrast to the towering skyscrapers behind me. At the Boat Quay, which is the reincarnation of Peranakan shophouses and godowns, I walk past chic cafes, restaurants and pubs. But I am heading somewhere even more plush.
The Colonial Core is most certainly the architectural goldmine of Singapore. Walking past the restored government buildings, cathedral and churches, I am whisked back in time to 1819 when Raffles first arrived. And there, past the Singapore Cricket Club and the Esplanade Park is the magnificent Raffles Hotel. Any backpacker who has been completely deprived of comforts for a month or so will certainly enjoy its luxurious ambience.
I am in awe as I walk up towards the main entrance. Taxis are pulling up with exquisite-looking people walking elegantly into the hotel lobby. The Raffles Hotel is synonymous with luxury, and the doormen wear traditional colonial costumes, making sure non-guests do not enter the actual hotel. But no visit to Singapore is complete before a visit to this national monument. And of course, no visit to the Raffles Hotel is complete without the obligatory Singapore Sling. Named after Sir Thomas Stanford Raffles, who arrived from England in 1819, the hotel was founded by the Sarkies brothers in 1887. The popular drink, on the other hand, was created sometime before 1910 by bartender Ngiam Tong Boon. The original recipe was actually lost and forgotten in the 1930’s, making today’s drink based purely on memory. Its pink colour was meant to establish it as a ladies’ drink, but in the Long Bar it is enjoyed by men and women alike. To my great disappointment though, I end up in the Raffles Courtyard & Gazebo Bar, sipping an orange juice costing about the same as a full day’s budget in Malaysia. Being on antibiotics I have no other option. I will simply have to return to Singapore. But I happily people-watch in the lovely courtyard, trying to imagine what it was like when Joseph Conrad, Rudyard Kipling and Charlie Chaplin sipped their drinks here. Probably very much the same. The Raffles is a haven of calm. Surrounded by palm trees, people talk with soft voices. The heat and humidity is stifling. The interior of the hotel is blindingly white. Only when I listen closely can I hear the traffic.
I decide to do a self-guided tour of the complex – starting in the extensive gift store. You can get anything there, with a Raffles logo of course. I find the historical Long Bar, but realise that the Bar & Billiard Room is also of some importance to Singaporean history. In 1902, the last tiger was killed in Singapore, pursued at the Raffles Hotel and shot while cowering under - the Bar & Billiard Room - which was then elevated. “Singapura” means “Lion City” but there has never actually been a sighting of a lion on the island. It is much more likely that the Sumatran King who named the island after seeking shelter from a storm there, spotted a tiger – and not a lion.
I venture back onto the heavily trafficked road, and proceed to shopping mayhem. About a 5 minute walk from the Raffles and I find myself at the end of the wonderfully glitzy Orchard Road. In the 1840’s, Orchard Road was a 2.5 km stretch of dirt road crossed by a railway, lined with burial grounds, orchards, nutmeg plantations and a few homes. Today, there is absolutely nothing left that will remind you of this setting. Orchard Road is Singapore’s prime shopping belt, from end to end, with some great spots to peoplewatch. First class hotels, fancy restaurants, crowded foodcourts – and of course shopping malls. The pagoda-roofed tower of the Singapore Marriott reminds me that I am still in Asia, although it seems like another world. People in business attire rush past me. Young Singaporeans show off purchases from the hottest designers. Tourists have a hard time carrying their multiple shopping bags, in addition to their cameras and guidebooks and maps. Because at Orchard Road, you shop till you drop!
Ngee Ann City is one of the largest shopping malls in the region. In addition to Takashimaya department store it contains a supermarket, about 100 shops, a gym, disco, gallery, one more department store of course, and an events and exhibitions area. Finding your way can be daunting, and don’t be surprised if you can’t find even half of everything that this complex contains. I consider asking a local for directions, but realise there’s no time. I have more shopping (or at least window shopping) to do. Tangs has five floors of fashion, electronics, silk and batik. And Isetan and Lucky Plaza are also on my list.
In the basement of one of the department stores I find a chic Thai restaurant, and sit down for lunch. As it is the middle of lunch hour, the place is buzzing with business men and women craving dumplings or nasi goring or a spicy curry. I love the diversity. This is all of Asia, melted into one. While enjoying my Tom Yum and pad thai I can pretend that I am back in Thailand, at least for a little while.
Full of energy (or at least very full, after a very satisfying meal) I continue my journey up Orchard Road. At Wheelock Place, I enter the massive Borders bookstore, which is at the entrance level of this 21 floor office centre and shopping mall. The place was actually closed down in the early 1990’s due to the Asian financial crisis. But Singapore has recovered magnificently. As the second busiest port after Rotterdam, there is minimal unemployment and super-efficient infrastructure. In fact, all aspects of this futuristic island seem efficient. Yet when you get fined for everything from not flushing a public toilet to eating on the subway, this efficiency comes as no surprise. Tourists should note that they can get fined for jaywalking and chewing gum. Not to mention that there is death penalty for being caught with illegal drugs. But Singapore’s authoritarian government has also introduced a sound social policy, including subsidised public housing for most of the population. There is heavy emphasis on education, and the Confucian values of thrift and hard work are omnipresent.
In the afternoon it starts raining and an Australian man lets me walk under his umbrella with him. We walk down Orchard Road talking about Sydney and my travels. He’s from Melbourne and is in Singapore on business. When was the last time someone offered you to walk under their umbrella when it was raining? On the surface Singapore might appear to have some of that typical Western sterility, but this city changes you. Its multiculturalism seems to bring out the inherently good in people. Or was it just my skimpy top?
For crowded, throbbing streets, hawker stalls and colour, head to Chinatown, Arab Street or Little India – but I craved the glitz that Singapore has to offer. I have seen photos of the beautiful temples and shrines of Little India and Chinatown – but I can assure you that the only religion apparent on Orchard Road is consumerism. Nevertheless, I love it. Singapore is the perfect stopover, and a gentle introduction to all that Asia has to offer.
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