Guanajuato - a Mexican gem

Nestled in between mountains, Guanajuato is a picturesque colonial town that attracts tourists from all over the world. Its winding streets take you to fine museums, beautiful cathedrals and leafy plazas. Although tourism is the main source of income, downtown is overflowing with charm and tradition, and newer hotels and developments are all located on the outskirts of town. This stunning UNESCO World Heritage site has brightly colored buildings and romantic alleyways that are bound to win your affection.

Being only 4 hours by bus from the major city of Guadalajara and 5 hours from Mexico City, this is an easily accessible place to spend a couple of days. Driving into downtown from the bus station, the roads turn into subterranean tunnels. There is an entire network of tunnels in and around downtown, following old rivers that have now dried up. Houses cling to the hillsides, and locals struggle to climb the exhausting slopes.

The historic downtown of Guanajuato offers several gems that can easily be explored on foot. Numerous cathedrals built during the colonial era, a large university, an indoor market where you can buy anything from local snacks to pottery, and several museums. The most romantic spot is probably “Callejon del beso”, or “Alley of the kiss“, a must-see for all couples. Legend has it that two star-crossed lovers would lean across the narrow alley from their balconies at night My favorite, however, remains the Plaza de la Union. Located next to the beautiful theater and an appealing church, this pleasant plaza is surrounded by restaurants and cafes. Green trees envelop the paths and the old gazebo, making it the perfect place to people-watch and soak up the romantic atmosphere with a drink from the strategically located Starbucks.

One of the town’s greatest attractions, however, is the rather ghoulish museum of mummies. Mummified bodies are displayed behind glass panels in a show so macabre that it should have an age limit. The naturally mummified bodies were taken from cemeteries in Guanajuato from 1865 until 1958, when it became illegal. The cholera epidemic at the time filled up the graveyards fast, and bodies were dug up when relatives were unable to pay the graveyard taxes. These bodies were shown to the public, and are the same bodies that are on display today. Well preserved bodies of old and young, with and without clothes, entertain and horrify the public. It is said that during the epidemic some people were buried before they had even died, to prevent spread of the disease. Maybe this explains why some of the mummies have expressions of horror and pain on their faces, screaming as they are about to die inside their coffins. Yet despite its appalling contents, the museum attracts crowds all year round. Every day, a long line of people can be found waiting to see the ghastly spectacle the museum offers.

The statue of “el Pipila” stands high above the town, offering stunning views of the cathedrals, plazas and mountains. You can buy tacos and corn, or handicrafts and souvenirs. A bus from the centre will take you up the mountain, or you can take the recently built cable car up the steep hillside. The statue was built in honor of a young man known as “Pipila”, who played a great part during the Mexican fight for independence. The Spanish had barricaded themselves in the Alhondiga, which was then a granary but has now been turned into a museum. One night, Pipila carried tar to the great wooden entrance of the Alhondiga and set it on fire, in an attempt to force the Spanish to surrender. Contrary to popular belief, however, the Spanish themselves decided to blow the door out when they realized that they were doomed. The victory of Pipila and his men was short lived, but he remains a hero in the legends of Guanajuato.

We didn’t find much fine dining or fancy bars, but we found a town soaked in history and charm. In this slow-paced mining town, people are astonishingly friendly and helpful, and taxi drivers charge what they are supposed to. The attractive cobble stoned streets take you to wonders on every corner, and make Guanajuato one of the top tourist destinations in Mexico.