The first day of 2010. Our first day in Guanajuato. What better way to start the year and our trip than by doing a tour of Guanajuato’s neighboring towns. As soon as we head out of Guanajuato there are mountains and trees as far as the eye can see. The road is winding up and down, the guide is going on and on about history I know nothing about (sorry), and typical Mexican music is blasting and preventing me from getting some much needed sleep. Let the fun begin!
First stop: Dolores Hidalgo. Historically, this town is known as the birthplace of the Mexican Independence. After Father Hidalgo’s conspiracy against the Spanish was threatened, he held his famous independence speech and yelled “Viva Mexico!” in front of his church in the early morning of September 16, 1810. Thus it was here that the war for independence began. Today, however, there is little to remind you of conflict and battle except the Museo de la Independencia Nacional. The church stands tall beneath a blue sky, and locals go about their business in the peaceful streets. In the green park in front of the church, a mariachi band is playing as children happily buy balloons from street vendors. In a quiet corner of the park, you can buy avocado-, cheese-, or shrimp flavored (to name only a few!) ice cream. Manuel settles for a sweet guava flavor, while I simply soak up the relaxing atmosphere.
Dolores Hidalgo is also known for its ceramics industry, and it’s the perfect place to buy brightly colored bowls and plates at an incomparable price. Another reason for visiting this quaint town is the tomb of Jose Alfredo Jimenez, a popular Mexican singer and songwriter. Just outside the town center you can find his tombstone; a huge sombrero and a serape (a colorful blanket worn by men) with names of all his songs. Even though I had never heard of this singer before, his tombstone still struck me as the most impressive I’ve ever seen. With its bright colors, it is definitely a worthy celebration of his life and work (and very Mexican!).Next stop: Atotonilco. This dusty town would be pretty uninteresting if it wasn’t for its Mexican version of the Sixtine Chapel. Though much less grand, the sanctuary contains seven different chapels that are all dedicated to Jesus. The chapel we are allowed to enter is filled with faded paintings and writing from top to bottom. The pictures tell the story of Jesus’ life, and biblical passages and poems add historical context. Nuns sell sweets and baked goods from their little store, and beggars sit patiently on the steps leading up to the chapel.
Last stop: San Miguel de Allende. At 6pm, we finally arrive in the beautiful colonial town of San Miguel de Allende (slightly disappointed that it is so late because this was the only reason why we did the tour!). This is Guanajuato’s preppy up-scale sister, hosting a large expatriate community (mainly American and Canadian retirees) and wealthy weekenders from Mexico City. While Guanajuato is low-key and unpretentious, San Miguel de Allende is elegant and slightly pompous. Here, the fine restaurants and fancy bars fill up in the early evening with sharp gentlemen and ladies in high heels. Still, this UNESCO World Heritage Site has plenty of charm to offer. 
Although San Miguel de Allende doesn’t have many specific attractions to offer, walking around its cobble stoned streets is an attraction in itself. Stunning plazas, colorful markets and ancient churches await around every corner. In my new, over-priced alpaca sweater I trawl the streets with Manuel until we finally end up in the beautiful Plaza de la Ciudad. Surrounded by restaurants (and a Starbucks!), the plaza is filled with people going for an evening stroll. The green trees dance in the wind, and as we look up we spot the stunning cathedral. This is the icon of San Miguel de Allende, and is the attraction to see. In the early evening light, it looks almost pink. Its façade is inspired by the gothic style of medieval Europe, and lit up it is a truly magnificent sight. Like straight out of a fairy-tale, its magic appeal makes me feel like time is standing still, if only for a second.
No comments:
Post a Comment