Our first stop is Sayulita. Though not as commercial as Vallarta, it is still every bit as much Americanized. Many Americans have made this low-key surfer’s paradise their home (this place even has an international school!). And who can blame them? A long, palm fringed beach, great waves, and green hills rising up from the ocean. We stop at a little Cuban restaurant for the best and cheapest burritos ever, and take a long walk on the crowded beach. It seems like thousands have made it down here for the Easter vacation. A Mexican family trio are playing band music (what the?!), and the surfers are showing off their latest tricks. We rent boogieboards and enjoy ourselves in the waves for an hour. The sun is shining from a clear blue sky, and I wish we didn’t have to continue home to Guadalajara…
Our next stop is San Francisco (or San Pancho), about 10 minutes up the road. This is what Sayulita must have been like before it got discovered. This is where the “real” hippies hang out. Beachcombers with dreads are singing and dancing in the street. I see no gringo B&B’s or coffee shops. And the beach…almost empty. A few Mexican families are sitting under their umbrellas, with their kids jumping in the waves. I could definitely spend some time here. The only problem; Mexicans love noise. So the beach front restaurant has put up huge speakers that are blasting out banda music (again, what the?!). Whatever happened to listening to the waves and the wind and maybe your iPod? What about enjoying the peace and quiet and reading a book or a magazine? I guess not…we gotta play by Mexican rules. Still, this beach is so long that I’m pretty sure that we can find our own little quiet spot if we ever return. We start wondering how much the price of a lot would be around here…
Our third destination; Lo de Marcos. This place is definitely undiscovered by the gringos, and the only places to eat are typical Mexican “cenadurias”. There’s a shady town plaza, and the streets are empty. The beach is perfectly quiet. Locals are selling shrimp and mangoes. Kids are playing. If only we could extend our trip by another day…
Our last destination is Guayabitos. To put it short, this place is insane. A favorite with Mexican families, this town is definitely over-crowded. And the beach…well…is there a stronger word than over-crowded? Filled to the brim, perhaps? How anyone can enjoy this beach remains a mystery to me. We enjoyed it merely from an anthropological point of view. The water is dirty and packed with kids and their parents playing and screaming. Vendors are selling fruit, ice cream, ceviche, shrimp, whatever your tummy desires. Of course, they are all screaming to let you know what they have to offer. We zig-zag our way along the beach, trying to make our way through the crowds. And the best (or worst?) part; several Mexican bands are walking along the beach offering music. For a fee, they’ll play for you and your family and friends, and Mexicans seem to love this. We see girls and boys shaking their booties to deafening tones. It sure is a loud spectacle. We had planned to have a nice dinner by the beach before we headed home, but we escape to a quiet side street for some tacos instead. As we start the long road back to Guadalajara, we both agree that we definitely won’t be coming back to this beach!
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