Touring the state of Guanajuato

The first day of 2010. Our first day in Guanajuato. What better way to start the year and our trip than by doing a tour of Guanajuato’s neighboring towns. As soon as we head out of Guanajuato there are mountains and trees as far as the eye can see. The road is winding up and down, the guide is going on and on about history I know nothing about (sorry), and typical Mexican music is blasting and preventing me from getting some much needed sleep. Let the fun begin!

First stop: Dolores Hidalgo. Historically, this town is known as the birthplace of the Mexican Independence. After Father Hidalgo’s conspiracy against the Spanish was threatened, he held his famous independence speech and yelled “Viva Mexico!” in front of his church in the early morning of September 16, 1810. Thus it was here that the war for independence began. Today, however, there is little to remind you of conflict and battle except the Museo de la Independencia Nacional. The church stands tall beneath a blue sky, and locals go about their business in the peaceful streets. In the green park in front of the church, a mariachi band is playing as children happily buy balloons from street vendors. In a quiet corner of the park, you can buy avocado-, cheese-, or shrimp flavored (to name only a few!) ice cream. Manuel settles for a sweet guava flavor, while I simply soak up the relaxing atmosphere.

Dolores Hidalgo is also known for its ceramics industry, and it’s the perfect place to buy brightly colored bowls and plates at an incomparable price. Another reason for visiting this quaint town is the tomb of Jose Alfredo Jimenez, a popular Mexican singer and songwriter. Just outside the town center you can find his tombstone; a huge sombrero and a serape (a colorful blanket worn by men) with names of all his songs. Even though I had never heard of this singer before, his tombstone still struck me as the most impressive I’ve ever seen. With its bright colors, it is definitely a worthy celebration of his life and work (and very Mexican!).

Next stop: Atotonilco. This dusty town would be pretty uninteresting if it wasn’t for its Mexican version of the Sixtine Chapel. Though much less grand, the sanctuary contains seven different chapels that are all dedicated to Jesus. The chapel we are allowed to enter is filled with faded paintings and writing from top to bottom. The pictures tell the story of Jesus’ life, and biblical passages and poems add historical context. Nuns sell sweets and baked goods from their little store, and beggars sit patiently on the steps leading up to the chapel.

Last stop: San Miguel de Allende. At 6pm, we finally arrive in the beautiful colonial town of San Miguel de Allende (slightly disappointed that it is so late because this was the only reason why we did the tour!). This is Guanajuato’s preppy up-scale sister, hosting a large expatriate community (mainly American and Canadian retirees) and wealthy weekenders from Mexico City. While Guanajuato is low-key and unpretentious, San Miguel de Allende is elegant and slightly pompous. Here, the fine restaurants and fancy bars fill up in the early evening with sharp gentlemen and ladies in high heels. Still, this UNESCO World Heritage Site has plenty of charm to offer. Although San Miguel de Allende doesn’t have many specific attractions to offer, walking around its cobble stoned streets is an attraction in itself. Stunning plazas, colorful markets and ancient churches await around every corner. In my new, over-priced alpaca sweater I trawl the streets with Manuel until we finally end up in the beautiful Plaza de la Ciudad. Surrounded by restaurants (and a Starbucks!), the plaza is filled with people going for an evening stroll. The green trees dance in the wind, and as we look up we spot the stunning cathedral. This is the icon of San Miguel de Allende, and is the attraction to see. In the early evening light, it looks almost pink. Its façade is inspired by the gothic style of medieval Europe, and lit up it is a truly magnificent sight. Like straight out of a fairy-tale, its magic appeal makes me feel like time is standing still, if only for a second.

Guanajuato - a Mexican gem

Nestled in between mountains, Guanajuato is a picturesque colonial town that attracts tourists from all over the world. Its winding streets take you to fine museums, beautiful cathedrals and leafy plazas. Although tourism is the main source of income, downtown is overflowing with charm and tradition, and newer hotels and developments are all located on the outskirts of town. This stunning UNESCO World Heritage site has brightly colored buildings and romantic alleyways that are bound to win your affection.

Being only 4 hours by bus from the major city of Guadalajara and 5 hours from Mexico City, this is an easily accessible place to spend a couple of days. Driving into downtown from the bus station, the roads turn into subterranean tunnels. There is an entire network of tunnels in and around downtown, following old rivers that have now dried up. Houses cling to the hillsides, and locals struggle to climb the exhausting slopes.

The historic downtown of Guanajuato offers several gems that can easily be explored on foot. Numerous cathedrals built during the colonial era, a large university, an indoor market where you can buy anything from local snacks to pottery, and several museums. The most romantic spot is probably “Callejon del beso”, or “Alley of the kiss“, a must-see for all couples. Legend has it that two star-crossed lovers would lean across the narrow alley from their balconies at night My favorite, however, remains the Plaza de la Union. Located next to the beautiful theater and an appealing church, this pleasant plaza is surrounded by restaurants and cafes. Green trees envelop the paths and the old gazebo, making it the perfect place to people-watch and soak up the romantic atmosphere with a drink from the strategically located Starbucks.

One of the town’s greatest attractions, however, is the rather ghoulish museum of mummies. Mummified bodies are displayed behind glass panels in a show so macabre that it should have an age limit. The naturally mummified bodies were taken from cemeteries in Guanajuato from 1865 until 1958, when it became illegal. The cholera epidemic at the time filled up the graveyards fast, and bodies were dug up when relatives were unable to pay the graveyard taxes. These bodies were shown to the public, and are the same bodies that are on display today. Well preserved bodies of old and young, with and without clothes, entertain and horrify the public. It is said that during the epidemic some people were buried before they had even died, to prevent spread of the disease. Maybe this explains why some of the mummies have expressions of horror and pain on their faces, screaming as they are about to die inside their coffins. Yet despite its appalling contents, the museum attracts crowds all year round. Every day, a long line of people can be found waiting to see the ghastly spectacle the museum offers.

The statue of “el Pipila” stands high above the town, offering stunning views of the cathedrals, plazas and mountains. You can buy tacos and corn, or handicrafts and souvenirs. A bus from the centre will take you up the mountain, or you can take the recently built cable car up the steep hillside. The statue was built in honor of a young man known as “Pipila”, who played a great part during the Mexican fight for independence. The Spanish had barricaded themselves in the Alhondiga, which was then a granary but has now been turned into a museum. One night, Pipila carried tar to the great wooden entrance of the Alhondiga and set it on fire, in an attempt to force the Spanish to surrender. Contrary to popular belief, however, the Spanish themselves decided to blow the door out when they realized that they were doomed. The victory of Pipila and his men was short lived, but he remains a hero in the legends of Guanajuato.

We didn’t find much fine dining or fancy bars, but we found a town soaked in history and charm. In this slow-paced mining town, people are astonishingly friendly and helpful, and taxi drivers charge what they are supposed to. The attractive cobble stoned streets take you to wonders on every corner, and make Guanajuato one of the top tourist destinations in Mexico.